Decorative Wall Panel Installation Instructions
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Decorative Wall Panel Installation Instructions Always remember to follow these important steps when installing decorative wall panels: 1 Condition the panels. 2 Prepare the walls. 3 Space the panels. 4 Use proper nailing and/or gluing patterns. Please read the Decorative Wall Panel Installation Instructions in their entirety before proceeding! These instructions describe the proper methods for installing Georgia-Pacific decorative wall panels. These panels are intended for dry interior use only and require care in handling. 1. Conditioning Panels Condition panels by placing them in the room to be paneled 48 hours prior to installation. Stack the panels on the floor or lean them against a wall, with spacers between each sheet. This allows the room air to circulate around each panel for proper acclimation. Only Lionite® Tileboard has a finish that is moisture, stain, and scuff resistant. All other pre-finished interior wall paneling have finishes that are not considered moisture resistant and should not be installed in areas subject to moisture or high humidity. All Georgia-Pacific decorative wall paneling should be stored flat and off the ground in a dry area prior to installation. 2. Wall Preparation Hardboard and MDF Installing panels over existing true walls requires no preliminary preparation. Sanding high spots on the wall is generally about all you have to do. In most homes, studs are spaced 16” on center, but 24” centers and other spacing may exist especially in exterior walls. Stud spacing must be determined, since panels must be nailed through the backing into studs or furring 16” on center for maximum holding. Measure stud centers and snap vertical chalklines along the wall for each stud. If studs are over 16” on center, install horizontal furring 16” on center following recommendations in section 10. If you’re paneling over a new wall, check your local building codes to see if you’re allowed to install panels 1/4” and thicker directly to studs without a backing. Panels thinner than 1/4” will require installation of a non-combustible backer over the studs, such as gypsum wallboard. Exterior walls must be insulated and have a 4 mil or greater vapor retarder installed on the side of the wall required in local building codes. Tileboard Tileboard must be applied to a continuous solid noncombustible backing. Do not apply panels directly to studs or furring strips. On masonry walls (concrete, brick or cinder block) a framework of furring strips or studs overlaid with water-resistant gypsum wallboard is suitable for tileboard application. Exterior walls must have insulation and a minimum 4 mil vapor retarder installed beneath the solid backing. Arrange Panels If you have chosen simulated woodgrain panels, take a few minutes to stand the panels side-by-side around the room. Arrange them to achieve the most pleasing balance of color and grain pattern, then number the back of each panel in sequence. 3. Cutting Panels MDF and Hardboard If measured floor-to-ceiling height is 8’ or less, subtract 1/2” from this measurement to allow 1/4” expansion clearance top and bottom. Transfer these measurements to panels for cutting. If using a handsaw or table saw, mark and cut the panels face up. If using a portable circular saw or sabre saw, mark and cut panels face down. Cut-outs for door and window sections, electrical switches and outlets or heat registers require careful measurements. Many a good paneling job has been ruined by inaccurate cutting for outlet boxes or heat registers. One method is to mark the outlet box with chalk. Then, place the properly cut panel on the wall and tap at the outlet location. This will transfer an image to the back of the panel and indicate the area for cutting. A 1/4” gap around this area will provide room for spacing and adjustment—the faceplate will cover up the extra space. On an existing wall, adjust the outlet box to meet panel thickness. Unscrew at the top and bottom, wedge a small paneling scrap at screw locations, and tighten. Tileboard See Spacing, Fitting and Tub and Shower Installation sections. 4. Spacing Between Panels Hardboard and MDF A 1/16” gap between adjacent panels is recommended to allow for expansion. Never butt panels tightly. A 3/16” space should be provided around windows and doors. Tileboard Installation With a Divider Strip For tileboard installation with divider strips, leave a 3/16” gap between panels, including 1/16” between panel edge and the inside of the moulding. Tileboard Installation Without a Divider Strip For tileboard installation without divider strips, seal 1/8” space between panels with a high-quality silicone caulk. For a pleasing appearance, and a secure seal, carefully caulk around the tub. Note: Panel adhesive must be dry before caulking. Wet adhesive may discolor caulk. 5. Fitting Panels Hardboard and MDF Put the first panel in place and bring to adjacent wall in the corner allowing 1/16” space. Make sure it is plumb and both left and right panel edges fall on solid stud backing. The panel may have to be trimmed to allow the outer edge to fall on the center of a stud for nailing. Also, on rough walls, or adjoining a fireplace wall, use a pencil compass to mark the panel on the inner edge, then cut on the scribe line to fit around the obstruction. Before nailing the panels, paint a stripe of color to match the panels groove color on the wall location where the panels will meet.

Tileboard Start installation at an inside corner. Scribe (mark) and trim panel to fit plumb (vertical). Continue to fit panels making sure that each successive one is plumb. Note: Leave a 1/8” caulking space between panels. 6. Adhesive Application Adhesive application should be used to apply Hardboard and 1/4” MDF*. 1/8” and 5/32” MDF requires both adhesive and nails. Hardboard and MDF Adhesive should be used to apply panels directly to studs or over existing walls as long as the surface is level, sound and clean. Once the panel is fitted, apply beads of adhesive with a caulking gun in a...