Octagonal 8x9 Instruction Manual

8' x 9' Cedar Summerhouse Assembly Instructions Section Page Contents: Introduction Base Preparation Overview Floor Assembly Side Assembly Door Installation Roof Assembly Side Cloaking Fixing to Floor Roof Felting Fascias and Capping Slatted Roof Installation (optional) Top Cap and Finial Casement Stay Set-up Cabin Hook Fitting Architrave Fitting Window Trim Fitting Parts Lists

Introduction Thank you for purchasing your new Alton summerhouse. We recommend you familiarise yourself with the instructions and read all safety information before you commence assembly. This instruction manual is also available online at www.greenhousepeople.co.uk in the technical help section should you need to reprint it. Should you require any additional advice you can always call us on 01782 385409. Safety Warning  Glass and timber can potentially cause injury. Please ensure you wear protective goggles, gloves, headgear and suitable footwear when assembling the building.  Please remember...

Base Preparation Note: If a membrane is used this may hinder drainage. Slab Base Size (Recommended) Note: The base should always be larger than your building. The measurements given in ‘A’ and ‘B’ should only be used as a guide. Recommended 3’ X 2’ Slab (2” thick) (910mm X 610mm) Summerhouse Summerhouse A (mm) B (mm) Depth Length 8 ft - 2508mm It is necessary to leave sufficient working room around your summerhouse when you're putting it up and also to allow for the possible need to replace a piece of glass or for further wood treatment. If possible try and leave a space of 2ft/610mm around the...

Overview To build your new summerhouse you will need the following tools: Spirit Level PZ2 Screwdriver Bit 4mm Drill Bit Step ladders x 2 Pencil Cordless Screwdriver (2 would be ideal, 1 to drill and 1 to screw) Hammer Hand Saw There are 8 different types of fixings used in the construction of the summerhouse. These are as follows, with examples of where to look out for them: Set the base out in the exact position you want the finished building in, its much easier than trying to move it when it’s built! 80mm Countersunk (Stainless Steel) Fixes soffits and roof bars to the eaves Used on floor...

Floor Assembly Begin by laying out two of the floor sections. The floor sections are handed, this is because of the notches in the sides so make sure you have one of each hand. Slide them together making sure the outside edges line up. Drill pilot holes with the drill bit provided and fix with 60mm passivated screws at the points shown by the arrows in diagram 1. Repeat this with the remaining two end sections. Fix the base noggins to one of the floor assemblies as shown in diagram 2. Drill pilot holes and fix through the noggin into the frame of the floor with 60mm passivated screws (diagram...

Floor Assembly Now connect the two middle sections of flooring. Drill two pilot holes and fix together with 60mm passivated screws. Makes sure the groves in the floor boards line up before fixing. Next fix the rest of the base noggins to the middle section of flooring. Fix these as before with 2 screws per noggin. You can now move the first end section of flooring into position (the one with the noggins attached), then slot the middle section onto the noggins.

Floor Assembly Finally line up the other end section of flooring, before sliding this onto the noggins make a small mark on the floor board on the centerline of the noggin. This is to help you get the fixing screw in the correct position. Once you have made the marks at each position you can slide the floor section onto the noggins of the middle sections. Check that the edges of the floor are in line before drilling pilot holes through the floor board in line with the noggin. Then fix with 60mm passivated screws (diagram 8). Its is crucial to get the floor flat and level as this will affect how...

Side Assembly The positioning of the side panels is entirely flexible and can be decided as you fit them, so for example if you want an opening window in the rear corner of the building you can. This instruction manual will show the standard layout. Take the first panel and position it at the rear of the building, get a helper to hold this in place while you position the next panel (diagram 9). Drill pilot holes with the 4mm drill bit supplied at each point shown by the arrows on diagram 10. Make sure the panels line up perfectly on the inside (diagram 11) before fixing with 60mm passivated screws....

Side Assembly Diagram 11 When fixing the panels bear in mind which faces will be most visible when you walk into the building. Try to keep the screw heads on the least visible faces

Side Assembly If you have followed the standard panel layout you can now fit a window section. Again it is up to you whether you chose a fixed window or opening window section. If the opening window is next to the door, the door does have the potential to knock into the window frame when open. If the cabin hook is used correctly this should not be an issue. Diagram 13

Side Assembly Fit the opposite panel as you did the last.

Fitting the next panel requires a slightly different approach as you can't simply drill and screw through at right angles to the frame. You need to get the drill in as close as you can and drill at an angle through side of the frame. When you screw the two panels together you may find the screw pulls the other panel in too far, you can prevent this by off-setting the two panels slightly and then the screw will pull them together.

Fix this panel in the same way as the last with the screws going though at a slight angle. Once you have done this you should make 2 final fixings on the outside of the last two panels (diagram 18). Make sure the screw head is not sitting proud of the surface as this will interfere with the fascias. With all the side sections in place you can now install the door. Remember do not fix the sides to the floor yet.